We will cover everything from driveway sealing, to parking lot sealcoating, hot crackfilling, striping, patchwork, and everything in between. We will be sharing tips and techniques that will help you prolong your asphalt and save you money. All while getting to know us as a company and as a reputable contractor with over twenty years experience in the industry.
Thursday, April 4, 2013
There Is More To An Estimate Than Just Square Footage
The number one question we get asked is: "Why is my estimate so high?" It is often followed by "But my neighbor's driveway is the same size and their driveway cost less." The final cost to sealcoat a driveway can vary even though the overall square footage is the same. Some factors that can affect the price to sealcoat your driveway are the age/condition of the driveway, shape, clean/dirty, obstacles (retaining walls, planters, etc.), long paved sidewalks, and the amount of prep work (long grass/crab grass, oil spots).
At the top of the list is probably the most overlooked reason for a price jump is the sealed driveway vs. an unsealed driveway. Whether the driveway is ten years old or was paved last year an unsealed driveway always takes more sealer. The asphalt is porous like a dish sponge just waiting to soak up sealer. Unsealed driveways take almost twice as much sealer in comparison to a sealed driveway. The other characteristics of unsealed driveways that can affect the price are the material used (binder type 5, 6, or 7), how it was laid (by hand or with a paver), and compaction (plate compacter vs. a 1 ton roller). The worst case scenario for a home owner receiving an estimate would be a driveway that was paved by hand using binder or type 5, and compacted with a plate compacter or 1/2 ton roller. Larger material raked by hand that is poorly compacted leaves the driveway loose and porous. Driveways done in this manner are usually performed by lack lust contractors, and the end results are usually failed driveways.
Large stone aggregate, under compaction, and hand laid driveways will always cost more to seal.
The second contributing factor is the overall shape and condition of the driveway. A driveway that has been neglected for years is always going to cost you more money in the long run. Every detail matters for example; if your lawn is manicured vs. a foot long and full of crab grass. This is the difference between edging taking five minutes or twenty five minutes and as they say time is money. If your driveway has mud, dirt, lawn clippings, and or weeds growing from cracks this will also add to the price. The more sweeping we have to do the more it is going to cost you. If your driveway has lots of large cracks and deteriorated areas it is going to take more sealer. If your driveway has large grease stains or is saturated with oil we will have to prime it first which takes time and materials. Most likely we will have to come back for a second coat in those areas which wastes time and gas. Basically the more time we have to spend making your driveway look good the more it is going to cost you.
In an ideal world every driveway would be paved perfect, and sealed every other year. Then you could simple say twelve cents a square foot it is, but we now know this is not the case. So you might ask: "what could we do to receive the best possible estimate and save some money?"
-Seal your driveway every other year
-Keep your driveway clean
-Use cat litter or speedy dry to absorb oil/grease
-Use degreaser on stains then rinse with water (Purple Power, Simple Green, etc.)
-Keep your lawn manicured especially near your driveway
-Spray weed killer on any growth coming out of your driveway
-Use bleach on moss then scrub and rinse
-Crackfill cracks if capable
I Hope this article was helpful in clarifying some of the other things we look at when coming up with the cost of your driveway. Do yourself a favor and take some pride in your driveway, and we promise it will pay off in the end.